Zenith Daytona | Yellow Gold Rolex

This Rolex Daytona ref.16528 strikes the perfect balance between sportiness and luxuriousness. Thanks to its sharp yellow gold case, screw-down pushers and contrasting black dial, it achieves an unmistakable presence on the wrist. As the first self-winding Daytona reference, it is also a historically significant piece, and features small, distinctive details which collectors enjoy pouring over.

The origins of the Cosmograph begin in 1963, with the reference 6239. Designed as the ultimate tool watch for endurance racing drivers, the Daytona, featured clean styling, with excellent resistance to both shock and moisture. The original concept was ‘The Rolex LeMans’, featured in early Rolex advertisements. In 1964, Rolex later introduced the “Daytona” signature to the Cosmograph dial, signifying the brand’s sponsorship of the annual 24 Hours of Daytona race, held in Daytona Beach, Florida. The signature was first placed at 12 o’clock, under the word “Cosmograph”.

In 1988, Rolex introduced the the first generation of automatic Daytonas, with the ref. 16520 in steel and the ref. 16528 in yellow gold. Housing the Zenith-based caliber 4030, the new generation featured a larger case and was fitted with a sapphire crystal. The new caliber was based on Zenith’s iconic El Primero caliber, which was first introduced in 1969, amid the race between several manufacturer’s to design the first ever automatic chronograph movement.

After Zenith was sold to Zenith Electronics during the quartz crisis, the company discontinued production of mechanical movements. However, it is believed that Charles Vermot, a senior engineer at the factory where the El Primero was manufactured, secretly disassembled the tooling for the El Primero over a period of months, and stored it in the factory attic after the closure had been announced. Years later, when Rolex expressed an interest in using the El Primero to power a new generation of Daytonas, Vermot showed company leaders where he had saved the tooling and production notes. Satisfied the company could meet its needs, Rolex awarded the ten-year contract to Zenith.

The ref. 16528 offered here has a Mark III dial, which is consistent with the watch’s 1991 year of production. The sub-dial at six o’clock features an ‘inverted 6’ variation, where the number six is inverted and appears as a nine, a detail which appeared on watches produced as late as 1994-5. The dial also features text on 5 lines, with the words “OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” reappearing after having disappeared on the earlier Mark II dial. This dial configuration is among the rarer ones, with most watches in this reference featuring a Mark IV dial which does not feature the ‘inverted 6’. The black dial on this particular example, beyond the appealing contrast and stark visual presence it gives the watch, also enhances its rarity.

The watch also features the correct Mark III bezel, where the phrase “UNITS PER HOUR” is located at the one o’clock position and 240 is noted, whereas 225 and 250 are missing.

It is no surprise that the the Zenith Daytona has developed a following in recent years. It is possibly one of the last production Rolex watches to feature a number of significant variations to the dial and bezels. It could be argued it marks the last generation of Daytona’s before Rolex evolved into its more polished, commercial incarnation, where these small quirky details and variations disappeared. The minutiae which a lay person may not notice or care about, are extremely appealing to collectors and form the very life blood of their hobby.

This watch is a truly fantastic example of a ref. 16528, featuring a seemingly unpolished case with thick lugs and crisp hallmarks. The case shows minimal signs of wear and the bracelet is preserved in excellent condition, with minimal stretch throughout. Moreover, the case back features the original factory Rolex sticker, an appealing feature for any collector.

The watch is accompanied by its original box and papers.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look