Legacy Machine 3 | Perpetual Calendar | Grey Dial | White Gold MB&F

Collaboration is very much in Max Büsser and Friends’ (MB&F) DNA. The company’s longstanding relationship with many of haute horology’s finest independent movement makers, has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated equally for their exceptional design as well as their mechanical brilliance. The Legacy Machine Pereptual Calendar is no exception, resulting from a collaboration between MB&F and the Irish watchmaker and movement prototypist, Stephen McDonnell.

When the watch was released in 2015, the revolutionary approach was a major step for both the brand and haute horology. Prior to this, MB&F’s use of complications was limited to the tourbillon, and executed mainly for an aesthetic impact. This Legacy Machine 3 Perpetual Calendar marked the first time MB&F took on a traditional high-complication, and executed it in their signature, forward-thinking style; making it a horological milestone in a space where only a handful of perpetual calendar variations had existed.

In many ways, MB&F reinvented the idea of the perpetual calendar, building on ideas seen in earlier examples of the Legacy Machine series. Just as the balance is raised above the dial in the Legacy Machine 1, the idea was to elevate the perpetual calendar displays above the mainplate. This required re-construction of the movement, as the posts used to support the dials stopped a traditional lever-system from operating. MB&F and Stephen McDonnell replaced the complex and delicate lever system, and opted instead, for a series of stacked gears. This neat approach not only enabled the free-spirited design of an open-worked dial, but had the added benefit of displaying the functions clearly and legibly on the dial side.

Further to this, the calibre introduced a default length of 28-day months, as opposed to the traditional use of 31 days. With this, a “jump” of up to four days can be avoided at the end of certain months, making date switches more reliable, and ensuring each month would switch at the correct number of days. The calibre also makes use of an internal safety-system, deactivating the correctors at date changeovers, to spare the movement from accidental damage by its user.

The goal of the Legacy Machine series was to create a tribute to fine and antique watchmaking of the past, and combine it with the forward-facing, creative finesse of MB&F. In its aesthetics, the nod to the past is largely achieved through the classical, round shape of the case, sized at 44.5mm. The engravings, Geneva waves, internal beveled and polished angles and countersunk blued screws all highlight the superlative hand-finishing of traditional, 19th-century watchmaking.

The MB&F’s progressive, avant-garde style is most apparent in the open-worked dial, and in the floating effect of the raised discs. The brand’s signature 14mm “flying” balance is seen at the centre of the dial, utilising a split escapement that operates on both sides of the movement, via a large central stem. Pristine white, stretched-lacquer sub-dials are found at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock; displaying the day, month, date and time, respectively. The hands are made from blued-gold, whilst the grey main-plate is decorated with a sun-ray pattern.

The unique architecture of the Legacy Machine 3 Perpetual is further emphasised through the high-domed sapphire crystal that has been coated with an anti-reflective material, making the watch 17.5mm high in total and creating true presence on the wrist. It comes on its original grey alligator strap, with a matching white gold tang buckle.

This pre-owned Legacy Machine 3 Perpetual Calendar is accompanied by its original box, papers and warranty card (signed November 2017), and remains in excellent condition, with little sign of wear. A Collected Man offers a complimentary service from the brand, within twelve months of purchase. 

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look