Calatrava | ref. 3579 | Steel Patek Philippe

Produced during the early ’70s, this Patek Philippe ref. 3579 combines both contemporary and classic design elements, from its steel cushion-shaped case to its striking sunburst dial. It is a stark reminder of a period during which design codes were fundamentally changing, both within the watch world and beyond.

An Inventive Design

Produced for a brief five year period, between 1969 and 1974, this ref. 3579 embodies the creative and inventive design approach of the time. With its cushion-shaped case, which thoughtfully balances polished and brushed surfaces, it marked a departure from Patek Philippe’s more traditional offerings. Though the Nautilus often gets credit for rejuvenating the face of the brand, this model from a few years prior clearly demonstrates their desire to innovate and experiment earlier on. Rumours suggest that these pieces were exclusively produced for the Japanese market, with 200 having left the manufacture over the years, though this hasn’t been officially confirmed. 

The ref. 3579 also sets itself apart for having only been produced in stainless steel, a metal which has rarely ever been used by Patek Philippe over the course of their history. With the exception of a few special pieces, and sportier models from the late 20th century, such as the Nautilus or the Aquanaut, they have long preferred using precious metals, such as gold or platinum. On account of its rarity, durability and versatility, the stainless steel case of this ref. 3579 is all the more appealing.

The Design

The Patek Philippe ref. 3579 stands out thanks to its contemporary, cushion-shaped case. The bezel and sides feature a brushed finish, whilst the lugs are polished, which creates a rich interplay of textures. This results in some interesting effects when the watch interacts with the light at different angles, whilst on the wrist. At 33mm across, with 38mm lug to lug, the proportions help it feel both contemporary and classic, whilst the unusual shape make it feel larger on the wrist than its dimensions would otherwise suggest.

Its silver dial features subtle “sunburst” effect throughout. The applied hour indexes are polished, with multiple facets, which complement the style of the hour and minute hands. The “Patek Philippe Genève” signature features subtle serif details, which have now been lost on current pieces from the manufacture, further imbuing this piece with a distinctive vintage aesthetic. In particular, the accent on the “è” of “Genève” is a feature most attributed to the brand’s earliest pieces. Overall, the dial is restrained, and seamlessly blends into the design of the case.

The Movement

This Patek Philippe 3579 is powered by the manual-winding caliber 23-300, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and carries 18 jewels. Produced between 1956 and 1975, the caliber was across a number of Calatrava and Ellipse watches, due to its compact size. It is equipped with both an overcoil hairspring and a free-spring Gyromax balance.

The movement is subtly finished, with chamfering on some of the angles, as well as polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping. This movement carries the Geneva Seal, which is unique in its accreditation as it focuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe ref. 3579 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look